Accessibility Tools
Skip to main content
June came in as a scorcher. Since the spring break-up, we had seen no rain. The sun rolled above the pines at 4 A.M. and got in sixteen hours of vicious work daily, before a long-suffering Mother Earth could heave up a protecting shoulder. Each breeze became a withering blast that dragged moisture from the very tree roots. The forest quiet was punctuated with a million faint cracklings. Undergrowth wilted and browned; leaves hung motionless. Spruce and pine slashings along miles of right of way waited for just one spark to transform them into screaming explosions of flame.

So wrote Ruth and Jack Paterson in their book Cranberry Portage (McClelland and Stewart, 1970). Fire was ignited as the rail lines to Flin Flon and Sherridon were being laid.

CRANBERRY PORTAGE FIRE OF 1929 CRANBERRY PORTAGE FRONTIER LIFE AT THE CROSSROADS OF THE NORTH By: Jack & Ruth Patterson Compiled by: Mary-Ann Playford Date of publication 1970 Introduction:

The Paterson family settled in Cranberry Portage in June 1928. Jack Paterson was a writer who took a gamble of living and finding stories up north. He wrote a book about his time up here - Cranberry Portage - Frontier Life at the Cross Roads of the North.

Ruth and Jack Paterson wrote in their book Cranberry Portage (McClelland and Stewart, 1970). Fire was ignited as the rail lines to Flin Flon and Sherridon were being laid.

Story:

June came in as a scorcher. Since the spring break-up, we had seen no rain. The sun rolled above the pines at 4 a.m., and got in sixteen hours of vicious work daily, before a long-suffering Mother Earth could heave up a protecting shoulder. Each breeze became a withering blast that dragged moisture form the very tree roots. The forest quiet was punctuated with a million faint cracklings. Undergrowth wilted and browned; leaves hung motionless. Spruce and pine slashings along many miles of right-of-way waited for just one spark to transform them into screaming explosions of flame.

In the V formed by the Cold Lake rail junction, a mile north of Cranberry settlement, 200 men were fighting a fire that had crawled from farther up the line. With both wide, cleared right-of-ways at their backs, they seemed to have it licked. Then a strong wind grew, and changed direction. A fierce gust lifted the fire over the tracks both ways. It caught, flared, and escaped southward toward the settlement, sweeping through thick woods on both sides of the railroad.

We rushed out. Bud was right. From the north came a steady roar, with added explosions. Through the woods we saw a spot of red. Gone. Another, this time a steady glow, followed by a sudden flare and distant crackling.

We tossed clothing, silverware, office files, and typewriter into two trunks, dragged them through the birches, and dropped them down the well. The wardrobe trunk, huge and heavy, we almost abandoned in mid-yard. Bit it held clothes we would need if the cabin burned, and we stuck with it. Grub, kettles, pans, all the blankets, anything needed for camp life, followed.

By the time we had shoveled in five feet of protecting sand, flaming twigs were burning our backs. Carrying a rifle and axe, arms loaded with grub, Ruth was chased to the lakeshore. Bud had packed a toy hat bag with her own treasures.

The heat drove us lake-ward. Pete and I stopped for a last look at the cabins, the beautifully treed setting, birches with leaves already shriveling in the furnace blast. Suddenly I remembered the gasoline lamps and a four-gallon can of gas. We raced back to the cabin, grabbed them, and tossed them into the eight-foot sump-hole that was part of our private sanitation system. The trees around us sizzled and moaned. Those already on fire shrieked in their agony. A gusty treetop explosion rained fire on us. Heat fanned my cheek like a blowtorch, and I felt my eyebrows frizzle. We ran.

People on the new town-site, further up the hill, had got an earlier warning. As we raced down toward the main street, they were already running for the lakeshore. The main street itself was jammed with hurrying people. Women struggled under loads of bedding, clutching tots by their hand, losing half their load and, when they bent to recover it, losing the other half. Dogs ran whining among heaps of household goods. Teams, hitched to wagons loaded with belongings from the upper town-site, careened at full gallop through the mob. Heavy motors roared as Airways planes were taxied to safe moorings, far out in the bay.

Now a real panic threatened, because nobody knew what had happened to the kids who had been in school when the fire reached us. Women were everywhere, fighting their way through the crowds, calling their children by name, beseeching help.

Then Tobacco Jowls appeared, in shirtsleeves, his white head bare. He waved a great arm and bellowed, "The kids are safe! They were took from school, and put on a gravel train. They're gone to Mile Thirty-seven. Look out for yourselves! The kids are safe!"

Women now gathered in groups, where some of them nearly collapsed with relief at the news.

Tobacco Jowls waved me over. "Where's the fire rangers?" he demanded. "Godammit, they're needed here to handle things! Some of the town-site people could be trapped."

We'll get up there, I yelled. Nobody's seen the bloody fire-rangers. On our way toward the railway we encountered another frantic mother. To this Polish woman, wearing only a scanty housedress, the news of the children's rescue had brought no relief. Her two kids were not of school age. She had left them at home, and gone to the drugstore. Nowhere log shack was in flames. She fought men who were holding her, screaming, "I go there me! Son of a beeches! Not stop! I go!"

"The train! They're with the others," I shouted at her. She was past hearing. We saw the walls of the shack move then; it folded to the ground in a tangle of blazing sticks. The woman fainted. (Later exhausted and desperate. Telegraph and telephone wires were down, and she had run fourteen miles over rough gravel and ties to find her own. They were there among the others, wide-eyed and wondering.)

Men were returning through the murk, "All clear above the track, except for the Finns at the hotel. Can't get to 'em. They're surrounded.

As they spoke, the main wall of fire left the half-burned buildings on one side of the street, and pounced across the gap to the other side. The buildings there, already smoking from the heat, were ready at the slightest touch of flame to hell-flare skyward. Following a sudden lift in the smoke, I saw the train dispatcher's office collapse; the engineering buildings beside it were a framework of fiery skeleton uprights. The front windows of Mrs. Sauna's place exploded with a sighing scream, and seconds later the walls went down.

In such a scramble, it was hopeless looking for anyone. Work engines were on the lakeshore siding, clearing boxcars, bunk trains, strings of gravel cars-panting, groaning, wheels spinning to start an overload.

Gritty faces poked from their cab windows. All Company manpower was now concentrated on a mile-long fire-front, attempting to save millions of dollars in rail-construction equipment and supplies.

The lake waters were at their summer low, too shallow for big planes to reach the shore docks. Instead, Airways used great loading barges moored well out in the bay. In addition to freight, these barges were now crowded with women and younger children. Loaded canoes lined a beach piled with household furniture, bedding, and boxes of canned goods from trading stores. I saw Pete coming. "If the women are all clear, let's take a whack at saving the cabins," Pete said. "They're still standing."

I grabbed a shovel and wet sacks and ran with Pete up the hill. The cabin roofs, both smoldering with spot fires, came first. We scrambled up, beat out the fire patches with set sacks, then found time to look around.

The heat was hellish. When one flare-up was killed, others came alive on each side. There was no spelling off, as the odds got tougher. Pete and I stuck together in case either should falter and go down. We were completely fagged, eyes smarting from thick smoke, noses and throats burning.

Late that afternoon a trainload of reinforcements reached the settlement, and the first wave of fire fighters dragged wearily to the lakeshore for a gulp of breeze. Those with families shouted across the water to the barges, where women prepared food, or sat, heartsick, just watching. It was hoped that the evening dampness would bring a lull in the fire fighting, but that night there was no dampness, no lull. Forestry and Company pumps rattled through the night. The women came ashore at dark, and billets were arranged for the homeless. Then a change of wind brought rain.

It was a deluge. The bay was lashed with whitecaps. Along the shore, great piles of construction supplies, still intact, hissed under the downpour; steam filtered upward from burning moss to show against the naked black corpses of trees. Hundreds of fire-marked men dropped their axes and shovels. Those who had lost homes or businesses crawled in somewhere to sleep a few hours, then reached wearily for hammers and saws. Already people had begun to rebuild.

As a direct result of our fire clean-up day, the original settlement by the lakeshore had been saved. Higher up, on both sides of the track, everything was gone. The hospital car, set on a private rail by the heroic action of the doctor and his helpers. The railway engineering buildings were burned, along with files, maps, and records, which had cost a year of field and office work."

The following pages reveal the story of the day that fire swept through the town. We do not know who took the pictures. The selection of photographs and the caption text are by Mary-Ann Playford.

June 4th, 1929 was a scorching hot summer day, as were the previous days of that fateful spring. No rain had turned the forest into a tinderbox waiting for a crucial spark.

A steam engine chugs its way along the newly laid track to Flin Flon. As it reached a marked incline in the grade, the engineer pushes the throttle ahead to increase power. All systems respond and the ignited coal burns just that much hotter.

Along with the smoke a spark escapes out the engine’s smokestack. It falls to the side of the track and nestles among the dry brittle debris. Soon a small spiral of smoke curls its way skyward. Then a tiny flame bursts forth. As it creeps along the tinder dry underbrush, it continues to grow. Suddenly a bush ignites

A forest fire has been born!

In the distance a spiral of smoke has been spotted.

Wary citizens keep watch as the sky begins to darken.

Pray for no wind as it is the vehicle that speeds a forest fire on its path of destruction.

Bursts of flame streak the sky as tree after tree ignites sending sparks spiraling up and outward.

A black cloud mushrooms to the west and the wind continues to increase.

The fledgling community of Cranberry Portage lies directly in its path.

All available men are pressed into service cutting a fire guard and lighting a backfire.

All to no avail.

Relentless the fire moves onward. Dense clouds of smoke fill the sky obscuring the bush around the townsite.

The flames creep ever closer.

Billows of dark smoke are seen over the rooftops.

It undulates along the rail bed and paths like a monstrous snake seeking its prey in coming ever closer.

A locomotive with an auxiliary pump is moved into position. This in hopes of combating the encroaching flames and protecting the supply lines along the CNR right-of-way.

There remains only one line of communication to the outside world. A cry for help is put through an emergency CNR telephone to The Pas. A rescue train with more men and additional pumps is desperately needed!

One is dispatched immediately but it is to arrive too late.

First the outskirts of the town become engulfed in smoke and ash, blurring the dividing line between claimed and unclaimed land.

The men and women frantically move their possessions in hopes of finding a safe haven from the flames.

No main road out of the community exists.

There is nowhere to run!

Belongings have been hurriedly piled in the street in hopes that they will be hauled to the lake.

Possibly there they will escape the flames.

A forest fire of this magnitude is beyond the realm of understanding to most of these pioneers that have come from the South.

They are ill prepared for such a catastrophe.

A few have managed to dig a well since setting up residence.

Their precious heirlooms are lowered into its depths.

If they are lucky, they may be spared.

Every mode of transport is pressed into service.

Cranberry, as a community, is in its embryo stage of development.

Transport resources are at a minimum.

It is no longer a matter of saving possessions but a matter of life.

There is no longer anything that they can possibly do to save the community.

It is being taken out of their hands.

One by one, dwellings in the lower townsite go up in flames.

There is nothing to impede the voracious appetite of the fire monster.

He is beyond taming.

It is his whim as to what will be spared and what will not.

A rail car and its cargo of coal succumb to the flames.

The inferno is not the least particular as to what it feeds upon. Hungrily it attacks anything in its path. The railway station cannot resist the conflagration.

The monster moves on devouring one building after another as they become victims of this relentless siege.

Monarch Lumber yields and all the work of providing building supplies from the surrounding forest is for naught.

Relentlessly the fire surges forward leaving devastation in its path. Burning ash fills the air. The heat is tremendous, searing the lungs with the struggling breath. The smoke is so thick and toxic that the eyes burn and constantly water making it difficult to move on a path to safety. Oft times it is only instinct that guides them.

The women and children are hurriedly loaded on the barge to be towed out in the bay. Mothers frantically begin accounting for their young ones. Suddenly a cry of sheer panic issues forth. "Where are the children from the school? We have to go back for the children!"

Above the ensuing terror a voice can be heard repeatedly shouting, "The children are safe. They were taken to a boxcar and hauled down the track. They are safe."

In desperation the men continue to wage a losing battle until it becomes apparent they have no hope of beating back such a raging firestorm. They have been pushed back until their only recourse is to seek refuge in boats and canoes.

With soot-blackened faces, seared lungs, singed hair and multiple burns of hands and face, they watch in defeat as the fire continues to sweep through what little of the lower townsite remains.

By the day's end the fire has passed through the small hamlet of Cranberry Portage leaving behind a trail of devastation and depair.

That night they stood on the the open lakeshore facing an empty future. Tears streaked their faces.

Children would never again take their homes for granted.

Many of those that had come north to seek their fortune had spent every cent they had establishing their business. They had borne witness to their dreams going up in smoke.

The fire monster proved to be a fickle one. The train station had been devoured but it left the water tower still standing.

All that remains of a boxcar and its cargo is a mass of twisted metal.

Amid the ruins a lone small cabin remains standing. How could that possibly be so when all around there are only smoldering remains?

In the foreground are the blackened remains of homes and businesses. Look carefully in the background and you will see those that were spared. I am sure that the question was asked time and again, "Why me?"

In the foreground are the blackened remains of homes and businesses. Look carefully in the background and you will see those that were spared. I am sure that the question was asked time and again, "Why me?"

Blackened logs that once formed the cabin lie in a jumbled mess. The shelter has become nothing more than the fire's remnants.

Strange and contorted shapes lie everywhere. It's hard to imagine that these were the simple tools of everyday living.

Tables, chairs, beds and simple things like dishes, all destroyed beyond recognition.

A lone telegraph pole remains standing stripped of its cross supports and its wires.

This day there is no communication tool to the outside world.

Water tower roof photo shows a greater scope of the destruction.

Smoldering remains far outnumber those that are left standing.

An entire block of homes and businesses ceases to exist.

What took weeks and months to create, the fire destroyed in hours.

It was a scene of desolation that greeted the eye on the morning of June 5, 1929.

How could Cranberry Portage possibly survive?

Men, women and children set about salvaging whatever had survived. Trunks were hauled up from the well's depths. The lake gave up its cache.

Those early pioneers were of hardy stock. They could not be beaten. Come morning they began the task of rebuilding.

Those that had, shared.

Willing hands worked together, neighbour with neighbour, friend with friend, stranger with stranger.

Such was the essence of community spirit. No man was to stand alone.

No one today seems to know for certain what brave soul climbed the water tower in all that ensuing panic to capture the scene on camera as the fire raged through the community. It is through his daring that we have a photographic record of Cranberry Portage’s forest fire that devastated the community of June 4, 1929. Whoever you were, our sincere “Thank you!”